Around six million people visit the Grand Canyon each year. Five percent go below the rim; less than one percent, or around 40,000 people go to the bottom. That includes river trips, mules riders, and hikers. My husband and I camped at the South Rim for several days, years ago, and planned to do a rim-to-rim hike, from the South to the North Rim. Unfortunately, the demand for back country passes exceeded the supply. Instead, we hiked to the bottom, camped out by the river, then hiked out the next day. We used the popular trails, South Kaibab going down, Bright Angel coming out. I remember it was a seven mile hike up, relentlessly up, on Bright Angel. It was an amazing experience.

What author Kevin Fedarko and photographer Peter McBride accomplished was many orders of magnitude more amazing, and relatively rare: over the course of a year, they did a sectional hike of the entire Canyon laterally, below rim. When you consider that very little of the Canyon is walkable by the river, since the walls often go literally down to the river as sheer surfaces, and there are few established trails going along the walls, how does one accomplish this? Bushwhacking through wilderness with no trails is the only way, with most plant life protected by thorns and spines, like varieties of cactus. Most somewhat flat surfaces are covered with boulders and debris from many years of floods, seismic activity, and erosion, rocks the size of cars and houses, at times. Since the hiker goes from a cool, pleasant temperature at the rim, to the harshest desert conditions as one progresses downward, water becomes a huge issue and challenge. The hiker cannot possibly carry the needed water for more than a day or two, so finding springs (rare, or dry) or potholes after a rain becomes crucial.

Kevin and Pete did not research or plan adequately, so their first “off the couch” attempt was a painful disaster, bailed out thanks to a significant figure in their adventure, Rich Rudow, an extremely experienced and benevolent guardian angel to the wretched pair. Rich not only provided frequent lifelines, he helped them attack subsequent sections in a more prepared manner, placing supply stashes of food and water at key points, guidance about the best routes, and even hiking portions with the duo, if he felt support was warranted. A list of other kind and colorful hikers accompanied Kevin and Pete at various points.

Fedarko provides a ton of background on the natural and human history in the Canyon, covering the entirety, from Lee’s Ferry to the Grand Wash Cliffs. He discusses the geology as they walk, identifying the rocky strata, and explaining how Earth’s history is exposed in a way not seen elsewhere. Human presence is discussed, from pre-history to the present, and plans for the future. Animals are encountered, and of course the ubiquitous cactus. Fedarko’s descriptions of the natural beauty, sunrises and sunsets, the night sky in areas with no light pollution, and surprisingly, the sounds, including beautiful periods of silence, will thrill the armchair traveler.

**Pete (photographer) and Kevin (author), left to right**

Perhaps most concerning are the current threats to the Grand Canyon. His book is not an encouragement to follow in his footsteps; he would rather that not too many people attempt his journey, since it might ravage the environment. This trip comprises some of the most challenging hiking experiences there are, not for even the gym-fit, since one must have a certain ruggedness, willingness to deprive oneself of all comforts, and the skills and knowledge that only come from years of gradual exposure to this environment— no off-the-couch hikers here. Fedarko is concerned that his experience won’t be available to our children, and their children, due to the proposed developments, in an attempt to make the Canyon accessible to all. The Canyon is not a democracy— it is a natural wonder that is NOT accessible to all, and making it so will destroy it. Already, the western Canyon receives over 250 helicopter trips a day, many as low as two hundred feet above the river, flying through every fifteen minutes every day, destroying the natural soundscape for everyone.

Fedarko makes an excellent argument for protecting the Grand Canyon from any additional development. We must protect what is truly amazing about this natural wonder, since once it is changed, it can never be repaired. Highly recommend this fun and enlightening book.