Climbing Free: My Life in the Vertical World, by Lynn Hill, with Greg Child

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I cannot explain, to my satisfaction, why I enjoy books and documentaries about accomplished rock climbers. There is something fascinating about individuals who stretch beyond the normal limits of human physical performance, especially in areas that terrify the rest of us. Such individuals have discovered the power of the human mind, the capacity to compartmentalize fear, self-doubt, and the “rational” inner voice perennially, compellingly arguing for safety and comfort, to end the suffering; once freed of these hindrances, our nervous systems are unleashed to perform far beyond what was once thought possible. Such is the story of Lynn Hill.

Once exposed to rock climbing as an older child, Hill knew for sure that climbing would be the center of her life. Whether at Joshua Tree National Park, or Yosemite Valley in California, Red Rock in southern Nevada, or many other locations worldwide, Hill has climbed the world. Climbers choose to use or not use, techniques, hardware, ropes, and other equipment, based on the area of the climb, their personal goals, as well as personal assessment of risk. Hill generally prefers free climbing, The American Alpine Institute defines free climbing as, “…climbing the rock using only one’s hands, feet, and body for support and upward progress.”; the climber will use gear and rope only to prevent death and catastrophic injury from a fall, as any fall is arrested to the last point of gear placement in the rock. This is different from free soloing, climbing with no gear or rope at all, just one’s body on the rock, made well known by Alex Honnold in his book and movie “Free Solo.” Hill has performed all levels and types of climbing, from timed sports climbing competitions, to mountain climbing. Her expressed preference is the purity of effort and experience in free climbing, but she modifies as the goals and situation requires.

Her most noteworthy accomplishment is to be the first person (man or woman) to free climb the Nose route on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley, long thought to be impossible. In 1993 she took four days to accomplish this; she returned in 1994 to complete the free climb in 23 hours. Hill climbed at a time when very few women were performing at this level, or even climbing at all. Long considered the testosterone-fueled domain of men, Hill climbed because she was clearly born to. It wasn’t a choice, it was simply who she was, and is. She was one of the first, and still considered one of the best.

Hill explains the rating system for climb difficulty, to give the reader a sense of the risks and challenges involved. She takes you through the legendary Nose climb and each of its noteworthy difficult areas, such as the Stovelegs, the Great Roof, and Changing Corners, describing the techniques she explored and attempted to navigate each part. She describes the climbing scene in Yosemite, when she and her band of fellow climbers lived off of tourists’ leftover lunches, and turning in recyclable cans and bottles to make enough money to climb another day. Much later, corporate sponsorship helped her to experience climbs she hadn’t even dreamed of.

Hill is a very likeable person, and feels like an honest narrator of a time when climbing was pure, before gear became more sophisticated, money and notoriety were not attached to the pursuit, and the love of the experience and challenge were the main drivers. I surely do not climb, although I love being in the mountains and such natural places. I think you also would enjoy this story of personal excellence in beautiful, dangerous places in the world that few have the chance to see. Highly recommend.